Published: December 02, 2008 10:09 pm         

Crisp and crunchy

Use flavors of autumn to bring zest to holiday meals

Autumn has a special meaning in my life. This is the time of the year when my family would go and spend time at the cabin in the woods of Buck Hill, R.I. My family grew many of their own vegetables and hunted for proteins. We spent many fall days foraging through the forest for wild onions, other root vegetables and herbs.

We would go to Round Top Lake to go fishing for trout and bass. I remember hiking and learning about the plant and animal life. My father and I spent many weekends cooking outside in the cast iron pans and in the ground using Dutch ovens; this helped me develop a respect and appreciation for bounty our forest held.

I grew up in a Scotch Irish household where roast meats and a root vegetable played a large part in our diet. Living so far from my family now, I miss the aromas and sensations that I once took for granted. The smell of allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg permeating the air would awake my interest of what was to come later for supper. My grandfather and I would sneak into the kitchen and explore the wonders that were awaiting us.

We would find parsnips caramelizing in the sauté pan and autumn bisque cooking on the stovetop and a wild bird that my papa Ray had caught roasting in the oven. I loved the aroma of the chestnuts roasting in the wood fireplace that were going to be used in our stuffing. My favorite autumn food however, was my grandmother’s homemade cranberry orange sauce.

Sometimes my cousins and I would sneak some of my Uncle Clarence’s rum cake. We knew that we were going to get caught, but it was worth it. The foods that I grew up eating in the fall were warm and comforting; they created the feeling of joy. Now when I think of home I think of the seasons and the foods that I miss.

While growing up, several members of my family still spoke with a Scottish brogue and many of the old world traditions played a huge part of our lives. I miss being near my family and find it hard to celebrate the holidays without them. My family and friends would spend much of our time having conversations in the kitchen while preparing something to eat. Food is part of the culture I grew up with and served as a way to solve issues and to celebrate. I find some comfort in that I can keep the traditions and culture alive and share it with my son.

— Chef Leonard Bailey is director of The National Institute of Culinary Arts at Mountain State University.